April 17 -- I found Lung Tien, where Hop Tien is, on a tourist map! "I'd like to go there", but, again, I was told, as a foreigner, for my own safety because of the sensitivity of the village being so close to China border, it would take a few days for the local authority to organize someone to escort me. I decided to leave as soon as I could find someone who could drive me 2 days back to Hanoi, and I started to ask around.

Philip advised to wait around. Something may come up, he said, and at least to enjoy the beauty of this area.

So, being a dutiful wife, I did just that!  

The motorbike ride with Tuan back to the Loving Market turned out to be a profitable one. On the way there, we saw more of the tribal people's daily life. The most amazing thing is to see people, even little children, have no fear of falling off the mountain cliffs. It seemed everyone enjoyed sitting, standing, sleeping, playing right on the edge of the mountains.

The market was in full swing when we arrived. Unlike the night before which had many Kinh (Vietnamese) people, this morning there were mostly Hmong, Nung, Giay, and other tribal minorities. Dressed in beautiful traditional constumes, people thoroughly enjoyed the market. Laughter rang out everywhere. People walked arm-in-arm, eating, checking out vendors' stalls of clothes, jewelry and foods, children playing, chit chatting in all different languages.... The market was very crowded, but not hustle bustle. I am totally inspired by the clothes, the colors and their unhurried ways.

 

After several hours, around 1pm, we followed the throng of people returning to their homes. On the back of Tuan's motorbike, I could see the winding paths around the mountains farther and farther in front of me spotted with colorful scarves and clothing. Most everyone carried something from the market, unhurried. 

Along the way, there were groups of people and children sitting on the edge of the mountain to take 

a break, and quietly gazing into the mountain range in the distance. Again, I am humbled by their ability not to rush about, and without effort, live their life so regal and with dignity.

By Goc Ba Cay Thi, Three Thi Trees' corner, a drunk husband sprawled on the grass while his beautiful young wife waited patiently, seemingly enjoying the breathtaking view. Later on, I was told the drunkenness during market days, or special festivals, like this Loving Market, was no big deal. The wives took pride that their husband had many friends who invited their husband to drink with them. 

As the rain-carrying clouds were rolling in, the sights of women, girls and boys carrying great bundles of vegetation against the background of the magnificent mountains made me realize the incredible tenacity of the tribal people here. No wonder they were recognized by all of Vietnam for their courage to withstand the invasion of China not long ago. The women, even with great bundles on their back, can reach the same destination faster than cars and motorbikes by using the steep and narrow paths straight up and down the mountains.

Later, after a nap at the hotel in Meo Vac, I was invited to have dinner with the PLAN staff. When I got there, Mr. Thang, the Meo Vac PLAN's much loved leader, told me he just got a call from a province official leader about a project that involved some development of the handicraft industry to improve the economy of several villages, and would I care to come to the meeting.... Remembering Philip had told me to wait around and that something might come up, I said yes!

April 16: Went on a motorcycle ride with Thu Ba’s husband to take photos of the local people and their homes. It’s a very hard life for the people here. The land was mostly rocks. The women worked in the fields while their children playing nearby. Their hoes made cracking noises as they hit rocks instead of soft earth. The women make use of every bit or soil to grow something. With bits of ground as small as the size of my hand, they plant corns and other vegetables. 

I was told by an official that in spite of how hard they work, they barely had enough to eat. Ha Giang province is also the poorest in Vietnam. The children also work very hard. Boys and girls, as young as 8 years old, daily cut and carry large bundle of vegetation to feed their cow. 


We spotted some children on the edge of the mountain. At first, I thought there were 4 of them, but as we stopped the motorbike and got off to say hello to them, I realized there were 9 children as the 4 I saw each had a little sibling strapped on their back. The 9nth child was so small. His clothes and face were covered with dust, he blended in the rocks behind him perfectly. 

The little girl, only 5 years old carried her sleeping little sister as if she had a doll on her back.

While the women working hard breaking the rocks to plant corns, and the children caring for their siblings, a drunk man staggered on the other side of the road.

In spite of their hard work and hard life, the women take great pride in themselves and dress so beautiful in their bright colorful costumes. Every one I saw wear some kind of jewelry.... Their beauty, their strength and their way of dressing themselves inspired me!!! These women humbled me greatly.

April 15: Arrived in Meo Vac in the afternoon…We are very close to the China border. The mountains are magnificent! The most beautiful, most vast, almost hallucinating natural wonder I have ever seen. 

 The people are so beautiful. 

In the evening , new friends from Plan International took me on motorbike to the "Loving Market." 

This festival is a one of the very few traditions of the tribal people here that are still in practice. The tradition began with a story about two lovers who were not able to be married to each other. The young man were killed by the girl's family, and the girl cried herself to death, or killed herself.( I got several versions). So the "Loving Market" is for people who could not marry those they loved to have a chance to see each other at that market once a year and their spouse would not be jealous...

About 9pm, in the dark, on motorcycles to the market, we wove our ways on a narrow path snake around the mountain with 200 meter drop on one side, among cars, motorbikes, bikes, pedestrians, and even a Hmong grandmother coaxing her little black pig to walk ahead of her. Her little grandchild follow close behind. Maybe, they just bought the pig at the market, and on their way home.

Almost certain that I would not be able to get to Hop Tien this time as I would need more time to schedule to visit this village. So bummed! and began to think I should leave this beautiful place sooner than I had planned.

April 11:Emailed several people about Hop Tien again. People still suggested to take a tour bus. Got discouraged.

Midday, I got a phone call from an old friend of an old friend who I had contacted before my trip to inquire about Hop Tien...

"Let's meet. I am not sure if I can help you, but let's get together this afternoon," Thu Ba told me.

We met later at a cafe (She ordered fresh pressed guava juice, and me carrot juice).

AND I've found a kindred friend. We share our love for the people in the highland. What a wonderful time we had!

Thu Ba has been working in the Vietnam highlands bringing projects to improve the lives, health and education to these areas. (BTW, she told me it is very vast). In addition, Thu Ba and her colleagues have began a new project to help the tribal people, especially children and women, in a tangible way.

I love their blog.

http://vuikhoeamno.wordpress.com/
The stories are in Vietnamese, and the photos are great to tell the stories that are very touching from providing a buffalo (that they will have to carry up the mountains), a bed and beddings to two young brothers who live with their elderly grandfather, to a beautiful story of a high school student who live with her mother and little sister and determines to continue with her education in spite of her family's poverty.

Thu Ba called a colleague immediately to ask about Hop Tien. "This friend is working on a thesis about the culture and history of the highland. He may know...", Thu Ba told me.

The friend didn't know, but would check around for me...

April 14: 10:52 pm: TB called: "Can you pack and get ready to go to Ha Giang tomorrow. And you will be gone for a week."

"Of course, I will be ready..." I thanked her profusely. At this point, I still don't know how to get to Hop Tien yet...

April 10: left tranquil Nha Trang for the fast, furious and fascinating Hanoi.
Hanoi was hot and humid, but I always love it here. It inspired me!
Asked around about Hop Tien, but no one heard of it... Meanwhile, I will just enjoy this wonderful city.

I am thankful for Chi Binh for giving me her sweet home in walking distance to the old quarters, my favorite parts of Hanoi. She made sure I had all my favorite food: whatever I want!!!! Here is a photo of one of them: xoi, or steamed rice with coconut and roasted sesame seeds.

There are so many more cars. Have you seen a bicycle being transported by a motorbike?

Visit a few galleries. Made new friends. Ate lots of pho, and banh cuon, com via he (food sold on the side walk)..and more. Clothes got too tight!!

April 8: Celebrated Easter at a protestant church in Nha Trang, and in the evening went to an Easter outreach... The church was empty at 6:50pm, but at 7:00 when the service started, it was completely packed.

No leads about Hop Tien, but cousin Thanh's wonderful food slowed down my plan to go to Hanoi. She introduced me to durian fruit... I am now addicted to this "stinky" fruit that has a wonderful fragrance.

We went to Lousiane Club for a drink... Life is good here in Nha Trang!

April 3, 5 a.m.: Left Providence, RI.

April 4: Arrived Ho Chi Minh City at 1 am.. Slept in a taxi cab in an alley waiting for the train station to open. My train was scheduled to leave at 6am.

April 5: Took the train to Nha Trang as a side trip to consult with my cousin Tuan who visited Vietnam highland several years ago. He didn't know where Hop Tien is, but suggested to take a tour bus to Ha Giang, a tourist favorite, then hire a "xe om" (translation: hugging motorcycle, you sit on the back and hug the driver, no seat belt required) to take me to the village, given he knows where it is.

Nha Trang beaches are absolutely beautiful. 

On my early morning walk along the beach, a caravan of fishing boats returned to the village. The women in the village would sell my cousin Thanh their fresh catch a few hours later. Have you had freshly caught fish and squids? Amazing stuff. I gained two kilos in one week. Thanh's being a great cook didn't help.

Emailed people to ask about Hop Tien....

Philip emailed people, too.